West coast cycling paradise

VICTORIA, B.C. — One of the best things about exploring a place while on two wheels, is you never know what you might come across along the path. Being on a bike typically slows you down, makes you more aware of your surroundings and gives you a much better opportunity to serendipitously stumble upon something unique or out of the ordinary.

A recent trip to Victoria, British Columbia definitely proved that point.

It’s a crisp, clear and cool spring morning as I pedal along the city’s E&N Rail Trail when out of the corner of my eye, my attention is captured by a tall, green creature of some sort. After a few moments of wondering what the heck I’d just seen, I decide to circle back and investigate. What I find is not just one, but a whole series of large objects displayed beside the path.

It turns out, I have discovered a Garden of Monsters; a unique outdoor art exhibit created by Esquimalt resident Alan John Hewitt.

The E&N Rail Trail is a 17-km paved bike and pedestrian pathway designed to be a non-motorized recreation and commuter connection to downtown Victoria and Hewitt’s brainchild can be found on a narrow piece of public land alongside the trial, about 50 metres west of Lampson Street.

By good fortune, I get to chat with Hewitt as he and a helper just happen to be adding another piece to his garden: a large animal-like sculpture constructed mostly of driftwood.

He tells me the story of how his work has landed in this place. In one way, it’s an ideal spot to showcase his creativity; the plot is just a stone’s throw from his Esquimalt home. But it was actually more out of necessity that he landed along the trail.

Many of the pieces were originally created for a showing at a gallery in Esquimalt, but a month before the show that was set to display his work in April of 2020, the gallery closed. And it wasn't long after that, Hewitt’s wife Sharon lost her patience with her husband, who was increasingly taking up more and more space in their front yard with his growing collection of over-sized sculptures.

“She kept asking me what I was going to do with them, so I came up with the idea of putting them here,” he explains. And that’s how the green monsters found their new home on the E&N Rail Trail.

Originally from Brisbane, Australia Hewitt moved to Victoria a little over 30 years ago. While waiting for a work visa he decided to use his time wisely; often heading to the library and taking out books and videos on European masters of art. It was while watching a documentary on Pablo Picasso’s found object artwork that Hewitt became inspired.

In 1942, Picasso took the handlebars and seat from a bicycle, joined them together, hung them on the wall and called it Bull’s Head. The sculpture is now part of the permanent collection in the Picasso Museum in Paris.

“When I saw what he had done, a light bulb went off in my head and I said to myself ‘I can do that,’” Hewitt explains.

Most of the 40 or so sculptures he has on display along the trail are made from driftwood and other found objects. The green one that I first spotted on the trail is named Night Watchman. Originally targeted for the gallery’s front window, it has two faces with four eyes and is holding on to a lantern. The blue eyes light up at night and the lantern is red.

“I’m not sure what I hope people get out of my sculptures. Joy and maybe inspiration, I guess,” Hewitt says. “I am not sure if I make them for the general public to admire or for my own selfish needs for a creative outlet.

“So far the response has been great, people have been photographing them and putting them on social media. The feedback I have received has been very positive and encouraging.”

Well, just about, he adds.

One local Esquimalt resident finds the sculptures to be monstrosities — like they belong to some strange cult. And that’s how the sculptures got their name.

“She has written to the local council 100 times asking to have them removed. What she does not realize is that the council does not own the land,” Hewitt explains. “So because of her, it is now known as the Garden of Monsters.”

Hewitt has plans to add a few more pieces to the trail-side garden but is also aware that he is once again running out of room. This time, however, he has a plan.

“I’m going to hand them out and give them away to the people in the greater community and greater Esquimalt for free,” he says with a wide grin.

Dibs on the big green one.

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Victoria has an abundance of trails‍

Known as a cyclist's paradise due to its mild climate, beautiful scenery and well-maintained bike routes, there are numerous trails — whether you're a casual rider or a seasoned cyclist — in and around Victoria that offer breathtaking views and enjoyable rides.

‍Here’s my selection of routes to ride:

• The Galloping Goose Trail is a picturesque multi-use trail that follows a former railroad line and offers a mix of urban and natural landscapes on its 55-kilometre journey from Victoria to Sooke. Along the way, you can enjoy forests, farmlands and stunning waterfront views. The trail is well-paved and mostly flat, making it suitable for riders of all skill levels;
  

• The Lochside Trail goes north to Sidney. A 62-km return trip ride from downtown Victoria to Sidney is a terrific way to see the beautiful and diverse landscape of the region. The trail winds itself though the Saanich Peninsula’s parks and forests, wetlands, farmlands, country lanes and manicured suburban neighbourhoods. As it nears Sidney, it opens up to provide breathtaking views of the island-studded Haro Strait;

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• For those seeking a more challenging ride, the Westshore Parkway Loop is a great option. This 50-kilometre loop takes cyclists through the Westshore communities of Colwood, Langford, and Sooke and the route features rolling hills, scenic coastal stretches and panoramic views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Although the Westshore Parkway Loop includes some hilly sections, the challenge is well worth it for the breathtaking vistas;
  

• The 10-km Colquitz River Trail is perfect for the entire family as it passes through multiple parks — and playgrounds — following directly beside the Colquitz River at times. Lots of folks end the ride at the Red Barn Market, a favourite food spot for locals that has a delicious deli;
  

• The 7.1-km out-and-back Dallas Road Waterfront Trail in the James Bay neighbourhood — from the Ogden Point breakwater and pier to Clover Point — is a leisurely way to enjoy views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Washington State’s snow-capped Olympic Mountains. This is as pretty a ride as you will get in Canada, showcasing the true nature of the west coast and the sometimes wild Pacific Ocean;
  

• Be sure to also enjoy exploring the city's urban core. Victoria has numerous bike lanes and paths that provide easy access to downtown attractions, waterfront promenades and picturesque neighbourhoods.
  

A few of my favourite stops

The one thing I try to avoid on a ride is putting my head down to just chalk up the miles. On my recent rides, here’s a few suggestions I recommend you check out:

• Hewitt’s works are not the only art to be found on the E&N Rail Trail. Down the path is an urban art corridor called the Trackside Art Gallery. Spanning half a kilometre, between Hereward and Fairview Roads, the lower section of the gallery features a rotating selection of art from various age groups;
• Midway along the Dallas Road trail is the Mile 0 Monument – the start, or finish if you like, of the Trans-Canada Highway. From this point, it is approximately 8,000 kilometres to St. John’s, Nfld.: that’s about 400 hours by bike, if you ride at a fairly brisk pace. If you like to be a more leisurely rider like most of us, you could probably double that time;

• Mile 0 is at the southwest corner of Beacon Hill Park: a lush 740,000-square-metre urban-forested oasis home to the famous Story Pole, the tallest freestanding totem pole in the world. The 127-foot pole was carved from a single cedar tree and erected in 1956. The average life span of a totem pole is about 50 years, but the impressive woodwork and painting underwent a major restoration project in the early 2000s;

• Park your ride at the free bike valet in downtown Victoria and check out the new pop-up exhibit in Fan Tan Alley. Established in partnership with the Royal B.C. Museum, Peering into the Past: Celebrating Canada’s Oldest Chinatown gives visitors a taste of the historical significance of Victoria’s Chinatown, which was established in 1858 at the beginning of the gold rush in the Fraser Canyon;

• Grab a java at Imagine Studio Cafe. Located across the street from Fisherman’s Wharf Park, the non-profit endeavour provides inclusive employment to young adults who may otherwise face barriers due to mental health, addiction and homelessness. And they serve up a wicked cinnamon bun and latte;

• If you prefer tea, there are numerous spots around town to have afternoon high tea, but a quintessential Victoria experience is to partake in the ritual at the Fairmont Empress. A grand tradition since 1908, up until eight years ago, the 1907 Orange Pekoe was the only tea served in the room. Now, there are 18 types to choose from. I went with the original to enjoy with my tiered trays of crustless sandwiches and delightful desserts. The freshly baked Empress raisin scones, served warm with house-made clotted cream and strawberry-vanilla preserves are the star of the show;

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A little history lesson…

Victoria is the capital city of British Columbia, Canada. It has a rich and fascinating history dating back thousands of years. The area was first inhabited by Indigenous communities, specifically the Lekwungen people.

In 1778, British explorer Captain James Cook arrived in the region and claimed Vancouver Island, including the area known today as Victoria, for the British Crown. However, it was not until the mid-19th century that a permanent European settlement was established: in 1843, the Hudson's Bay Company established a trading post, Fort Victoria, sparking the development of the city.

Named after England’s Queen Victoria, the city grew rapidly during the Fraser River Gold Rush of the 1850s. (There are some great photos and exhibits about this era in the previously mentioned Fan Tan Alley exhibit; it’s fascinating stuff, folks).

In 1871, B.C. joined the Canadian Confederation and Victoria became the capital city of the province. By the late 19th century, Victoria had become a major centre for trade, commerce and culture in the Pacific Northwest. The city's British influence was evident in its urban planning, governance and social institutions. It boasted beautiful gardens, parks and grand buildings that attracted wealthy visitors and established it as a popular tourist destination.

Today, Victoria is a vibrant and multicultural city known for its stunning natural beauty, historic charm and high quality of life. It embraces its rich history and blends it seamlessly with modern amenities, making it a beloved destination for residents and visitors alike.

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Some other top attractions in the area:

• Butchart Gardens: Established in 1904, this world-renowned garden attraction features stunning floral displays, tranquil pathways and unique themed gardens, The gardens were designated a national historic site of Canada in 2004. It is located on the Saanich Peninsula, approximately 21 kilometres north of Victoria;
  

• Inner Harbour: The beautiful centre of downtown Victoria that features a vibrant waterfront area with picturesque views, historic buildings and plenty of places to eat. It’s the epicentre of what makes Victoria a famous travel destination;
  

• Fisherman's Wharf: A floating village of colourful fishing boats, the wharf is a lively destination for dining on seafood, shopping for souvenirs and spotting harbour seals;

• Royal BC Museum: Showcases the province's natural and human history with interactive exhibits, artifacts and immersive displays;
  

• Craigdarroch Castle: A Victorian-era mansion that offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the city's elite during the late 19th century;
  

• Victoria Bug Zoo: This unique attraction allows visitors to get up close and personal with various insects and arachnids through interactive displays and guided tours;
  

• Miniature World: One of the most popular tourist destinations in the city, where intricately designed miniature dioramas showcase historical and fictional scenes, including two of the world's largest doll houses — circa 1880 — with over 50 rooms beautifully furnished in exquisite detail;

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Where to stay

Victoria has a wide variety of accommodation options; from the grand Fairmont Empress to the historic Strathcona Hotel — to quaint bed and breakfasts like the Pendray Inn and Tea House (formerly Gatsby Mansion).

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• One of my favourites is the Inn at Laurel Point. B.C’s first carbon-neutral hotel, the Inn is governed by a set of trustees that remain committed to the socially responsible spirit of the late Paul and Artie Arsens, who first purchased the property in 1982. The Inn has all the amenities of a modern luxury hotel, but also has a relaxing and old-school homeyness to it. The views from the rooms, the restaurants and / or the grounds are some of the best in town. Watching the seaplanes land in the Inner Harbour over breakfast at the Aura Waterfront Restaurant + Patio is a must-do Victoria experience.

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Get your wheels at…

There are numerous quality bike shops in Victoria and many offer rentals and tours. Here’s a few to consider when in the area:

• The Pedaler is conveniently located on the Inner Harbour’s Belleville Street. Along with rentals, the bike shop offers a variety of guided tours that explore the area’s scenic vistas, landmarks and unique neighbourhoods. A special shout-out to Richard Bell for showing me the James Bay sites.;
• Established in 1993, Cycle BC has a wide range of quality bikes — from high-performance road bikes to beach cruisers. Like most shops there days, they also have a good selection of e-bikes. Additionally, they have a terrific assortment of curated routes to help visitors see the best of Victoria;
• Oak Bay Bicycles has free delivery in the Greater Victoria area and a superb selection of  city bikes, e-bikes — and gravel bikes!;

I hope this information is helpful to you when planning a trip to beautiful Victoria. If you have any questions or would like some other suggestions, feel free to drop me a line. I’m happy to help.

Steve