Vancouver’s picturesque paths

My first visit to Vancouver was as a young lad. It was a few months shy of my fifth birthday and my father and I travelled by train from Regina, to introduce me to his side of the family.

I have a few faint memories of the trip: the train ride through the Canadian Rockies; being frightened by a goat in the Stanley Park Zoo (it closed in 1996); then being forced to have a photo taken with my grandma near that darn goat; and a view of the water and the gorgeously-treed shoreline from the terrace of my relatives’ home in the West Vancouver residential area known as the British Properties.

Thankfully, it was the beauty of the place — and not the ornery four-legged creature — that left an indelible impression on my young mind.

Cradled between the North Shore Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, you’d be hard-pressed to name a more stunning city in Canada than Vancouver: in fact, it often appears on lists naming it as one of the most picturesque places on the planet. Its natural beauty offers visitors the opportunity to indulge in a plethora of outdoor recreational activities. Its sophisticated arts and culture scene provides an abundance of entertainment options. And its multicultural citizenry— more than half of Vancouver residents claim their first language to be something other than English — has created an incredibly diverse food scene.

I’ve returned to the city many times since that initial visit and there is always something new and exciting to discover. What I’ve most recently learned is Vancouver is an extremely bike-friendly destination.

Cycling has a rich history in Vancouver. In the 1890s, the popularity of bicycles surged, leading to the formation of cycling clubs. The Vancouver Bicycle Club, established in 1895, was among the earliest. Over the decades, cycling infrastructure evolved, with dedicated bike paths emerging in the mid-20th century.

The 1970s saw a renewed interest in cycling, driven by environmental consciousness. Advocacy groups emerged, pushing for improved bike infrastructure and the 2010 Winter Olympics spurred further development, with the city enhancing cycling lanes and promoting bike-sharing programs.

Today, there are more than 320 kms of bike routes in the city; most notably, the longest uninterrupted waterfront bike path in the world — the 28-km Seaside Greenway — and bike-friendly initiatives continue to shape Vancouver’s cycling culture.

On a recent trip to Vancouver, I enlisted the assistance of bike guide extraordinaire Jeremy Catherall to help me discover some of the best places to see while on two wheels. The 45-year-old, third-generation Vancouverite is a former elementary school teacher who now teaches from his bike seat. The lead guide at Vancouver Bike Tours, Catherall educates and informs on his twice-daily tours that depart from a small bike shop near English Bay. He not only takes you to the more well-known spots in town, but also visits some off-the-beaten path and lesser-known places that are examples of Vancouver’s history of diversity, inclusion and, of course, west coast fun. “I like showing folks the different sides of my city,” he says. “I want the ride to be informative as well as enjoyable.”

So with Jeremy’s help — and a few spots discovered on my own — here are 10 suggested destinations to visit on a bike in and around downtown Vancouver. I’ve also included a great spot to grab a java — because no bike ride is complete without enjoying a great cup of joe:

• Take Pride: Vancouver became the first city in Canada to have a rainbow crosswalk in 2013, when all four crosswalks at the intersection of Davie Street and Bute Street in Davie Village were painted in rainbow colours. The idea to create rainbow crosswalks appears to have first emerged in Taipei, Taiwan in 2008 and the first permanent rainbow crosswalks emerged in West Hollywood as part of Gay Pride Month in 2012. Davie Village is known internationally as a thriving LGBTQ2S+ community and it is bursting with unique bookstores, boutiques and places to eat. Its rainbow crosswalks are next to Jim Deva Plaza, an outdoor space with a very cool giant megaphone sculpture;

• Historic and helpful housing: Located at the highest elevation point in Vancouver’s West End, Mole Hill is the last surviving block of pre-First World War housing stock in Vancouver. And while the 30 heritage-listed properties that were built between 1888 and 1908 are fine examples of Victorian and Edwardian era domestic architecture, what’s perhaps most significant about them today is they are governed by the Mole Hill Community Housing Society and contain 170 social housing suites, three daycares, a group home and a host of community assets — all set in a beautiful park-like environment. The gorgeous homes, their story, and the setting are well worth the climb, folks;
  

• Bright lights, big city: If you like shiny things — I know I sure do — one of the more unique discoveries I’ve found during my travels is the spinning chandelier under the Granville Street Bridge. City bylaws required luxury property developer Westbank to provide the public art piece as part of its Vancouver House project that is just north of the chandelier. The $4.8-million price tag on the chandelier, which is eight metres tall by four metres wide, has drawn criticism from some folks who feel the money could have been used in a more socially responsible fashion. Others suggest it creates conversation and draws visitors to the historically industrial area. One thing for sure, it is quite the site when it lowers and spins, which it does daily at noon, 4 pm and 9 pm. I suggest the late viewing, after the sun has gone down;

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• Chho-choo train: Canadian Pacific Railway (C.P.R.) Engine 374 was the locomotive that pulled the first transcontinental passenger train into Vancouver in May of 1887 and it is currently housed and on display in a pavilion named in its honour next to the Roundhouse Community Centre in Yaletown. There is free admission to the pavilion where you can climb into the cab, ring the bell, lean out the window and call for ‘all aboard!’ The Roundhouse area has its own interesting history: the cluster of buildings housed and serviced the great steam locomotives of the day. Kids of all ages will love this area;
  

• Quitting time: Installed in 2021, Weekend Chime in Robson Plaza is a public art piece by sound artist and musician Brady Cranfield that plays two notes from Loverboy’s iconic pop song Working for the Weekend every Friday at 5 pm. The chime plays on four speakers that are all painted as close as possible to the red of the leather pants seen on the front of Loverboy’s Get Lucky album. Cranfield once said he liked the catchy tune because of the way it describes a kind of “political awareness” of working people;
  

• The Hendrix Experience: And if music is your thing, you will also want to check out Hendrix House in the neighbourhood of Strathcona. Built in 1904 and designated a heritage building, the gable-roofed two-storey house was home to Nora Rose Hendrix from 1938 to 1952. She and her husband Ross met while part of a traveling Dixieland vaudeville troupe and they settled in Vancouver in 1911. Nora co-founded the first black church in Vancouver, where she also led the choir. Nora and Ross were also grandparents to legendary American guitarist Jimi Hendrix, who would sometimes visit them from his home in Seattle. While stopped in front of the house, I could almost imagine the opening notes of Purple Haze ringing out into the streets;

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• They built this city: The Chinese Memorial Monument, with statues of an 1880s railway worker and a World War II soldier, recognizes Chinese Canadians who lived and died building the cross-Canada railway system and those who volunteered in war efforts. Established in the 1890s, Vancouver is home to North America’s third largest Chinatown after New York and San Francisco. Unfortunately, the COVID-19 pandemic shutdowns hit the neighbourhood particularly hard and there also was a spike in anti-Asian attacks in the area. Chinatown has also been adversely affected by crime spilling over into its streets from the adjacent Lower East Side. On the bright side, federal, provincial and municipal governments have recently made significant commitments towards helping to revitalize the area. For me, it was well worth my time to stop at the monument and take a moment to reflect on how there have been many different people, including Chinese immigrants, help build a united and prosperous Canada;
  

• Thank you, Lord Stanley: No visit to Vancouver would be complete without a visit to Stanley Park. Situated on a peninsula at the northwestern edge of downtown Vancouver, the park offers spectacular views of the city skyline and mountains and a wide assortment of recreational activities. Here are four suggestions I discovered for the first time on my most recent trip the the magnificent green oasis:

— There is a stunning statue of legendary track star Harry Jerome along the seawall that is worth checking out. It’s a great place to snap a few pics of the downtown skyline and an opportunity to learn a little more about Jerome, who not only made his mark in sports but was a champion in his work to address racism. B.C.’s Athlete of the Century shared the title of being the world’s fastest human for eight years  when he tied the world record in the 100-metre race in 1960; he later would win a bronze medal in the event at the 1964 Olympics in Tokyo. He also fought prejudice at a community level, arguing for the inclusion of Black mannequins in Vancouver storefronts;

— Representing a number of Indigenous nations and located in a beautiful meadow setting, the nine totem poles at Brockton Point in the park are B.C.’s most visited tourist attraction. The collection started in the 1920s when a preservation movement worked to protect the poles from being taken by or sold to Americans. In 1963, replicas and replacements of the original totems were moved to their current home and the originals were sent to various museums for preservation or returned to their places of origin. Each one is thought-provoking in its own way and it was the Sky Chief pole that represents "our art comes from spirituality” that captured my attention most of this particular day;

— There is a lake in the middle of the park. Who knew?! Beaver Lake is a diverse and tranquil wetland area 1.5 kilometres inland from Stanley Park Drive. There is a flat one-km trail that goes completely around the exquisite urban wilderness and you are sure to spot a variety of waterfowl — I saw a gorgeous Great Blue Heron — and perhaps a beaver or two. There is a large lodge that can be seen from the main viewing spot;

— It’s a somewhat strenuous climb to the highest point of Stanley Park, but Prospect Point is worth the effort. Known as Vancouver’s original viewpoint, it has great views of the ocean to the west, West and North Vancouver to the north and the Lions Gate Bridge;

• Hey Joe: One of the many things I look for when I travel is a local coffee shop and Delany’s on Denman Street is one of my personal favourites. It’s ideally located close to English Bay and the terrific shops and restaurants of Denman Village — and it offers up quality java, plenty of freshly baked accompaniments and uber-delicious breakfast wraps;

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• Ice cream with a twist: I’m also always on the lookout for a tasty ice cream shop and there are no shortage of those in Vancouver. But one of the more fun and cheeky ones I’ve found in my travels is a place called PERVERTED. Located on Thurlow Street, next door to the incomparable and iconic Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House, the modern counter offers innovative soft-serve concoctions with names like Brand Spanking, Beg For S’More, Cinner and Dirty Blonde. Not surprisingly, the shop’s motto is ‘Every time I come, Ice Cream.’

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Here are 7 other great bike routes in Vancouver:

• Seaside Greenway: This 28-km path is the jewel in Vancouver’s biking crown, starting in Coal Harbour near the convention centre, extending around False Creek and then heading westward towards Spanish Banks Beach. Along the way, you will wind past parks, beaches and public art installations with breathtaking views of the ocean, mountains and city. it is safe for riders of all ages and abilities. You can add a little adventure to the ride by taking the Aquabus to Granville Island;

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• Stanley Park Seawall: This is a nine-kilometre route that everyone can ride – and everyone literally usually does. To manage the tourist traffic, there’s a one-way system in place, so you can only ride counter-clockwise, between Devonian Harbour Park and Second Beach. Highlights along the path include: the Girl in a Wetsuit sculpture that’s known as the little mermaid; a large rock outcrop called Siwash Rock that was formed 32 million years ago; and the Nine O'Clock Gun, a large old cannon that fires every night at exactly 9 pm;
  

• Arbutus Greenway: A former railway that has been transformed into a safe and peaceful urban space, this trail starts near Granville Island and runs 8.5 kilometres on a paved and separated path towards the Fraser River. The path officially ends just before you get to Fraser River Park, but I recommend also exploring that area. There are some nice pathways along the mighty Fraser and some boardwalks on the rover. as well;
  

• Lions Gate Bridge: Don’t just gaze at it, cross it! Spanning the first narrows of Burred Inlet from downtown Vancouver to North Vancouver, one of Canada’s most iconic bridges has dedicated bike paths that help you safely travel across the 1.8-km span. There are several spectacular sightseeing spots that overlook Stanley Park, the city, and the North Shore. Mind your cycling etiquette on the bridge, particularly on busy days, giving plenty of notice when you plan to pass a pedestrian or another cyclist. Additionally, be cautious as you are heading into North Vancouver; the north half of the bridge can be a fast descent;

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• Queen Elizabeth Park: Less explored than famous Stanley, this park — the highest spot in the city — has gorgeous views and numerous gardens and trails to explore. After checking out the various green spaces, pedal west along 37th Avenue to reach VanDusen Botanical Garden, where plant species from around the world are on display year-round. Word of caution: there’s a price to pay for the views. Pretty much anywhere you start, there will be a significant climb to the to get to the park. I have read, however, that some folks take the Canada Line train, which has bike storage in each car, to the station at Oakridge 41st Ave. Then you can bike down to QE park, and when you are ready to return to downtown, it will be downhill all the way;

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• Central Valley Greenway: A gorgeous urban path, this 25-km route connects Vancouver and New Westminster, leading you through metropolitan neighbourhoods, past historic shopping districts and into scenic, natural areas. Start your ride at Science World on False Creek and then curve down through Commercial Drive, making it easy to explore nearby neighbourhoods and Trout Lake. Continue along through Burnaby, where you can see wildlife at Burnaby Lake and pass by the Nature House, Equestrian Centre and Rowing Pavilion. When you arrive in New Westminster, be sure to stop at one of the many outdoor cafés and also explore River Market at New Westminster Quay;
  

• Which way to the beach?: Start your ride at Jericho Beach, where you have views of English Bay — and then wind along the shoreline to the series of beaches at Spanish Banks, where you can take in a panoramic view of Vancouver and the mountains. From there, continue to on Wreck Beach, Vancouver’s legendary clothing-optional beach. If you’ve worked up a sweat and want to cool off, you could always strip for a dip! Afterwards, explore Pacific Spirit Regional Park, which has many unpaved bike paths that cut through lushly forested areas.
  

A little history lesson…

Vancouver has a rich history shaped by Indigenous peoples long before European exploration. The Coast Salish people, specifically the Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh Nations, inhabited the region for thousands of years.

In 1792, British explorer Captain George Vancouver arrived, charting the area and laying the foundation for European settlement. The mid-19th century saw the Hudson's Bay Company establish a trading post, fortifying Vancouver's importance in the fur trade.

The completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1887 accelerated the city's growth, transforming it into a bustling seaport and Vancouver's strategic location on the Pacific coast fuelled economic prosperity, attracting immigrants and businesses.

The 20th century brought diverse influences, including the completion of the Lions Gate Bridge in 1938 and hosting the Expo '86 World's Fair, which showcased the city on a global stage. Vancouver further solidified its reputation as a vibrant, cosmopolitan city by successfully hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Today, Vancouver stands as a beacon of multiculturalism, surrounded by stunning natural beauty. Its history is a mosaic of Indigenous heritage, pioneering exploration, economic development and global recognition.

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When not on a bike, here are six of my favourite attractions to check out in Vancouver:

• Capilano suspension bridge: A 15-minute drive from downtown Vancouver, visitors have been crossing the famous swinging bridge 137 metres across Capilano Canyon and 70 metres over the Capilano River since 1889. Additionally, there are many other attractions in Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, including: a kids rainforest explorer program; a treetops adventure that gives you a squirrel’s-eye view of the 1,300-year-old Douglas Fir trees; and the newest addition to the park called Cliffwalk that follows a granite precipice along the with a labyrinth-like series of narrow cantilevered bridges, stairs and platforms;

• Vancouver Aquarium: One of my favourite things to see in Stanley Park are the entertaining and cute-as-you-can-get otters at the aquarium. But there are plenty of other reasons to visit this amazing attraction. Opened in 1956 as Canada's first public aquarium, the facility is home to over 65,000 animals and 120 world-class exhibits. Along with the otters, I strongly suggest taking a little extra time to see the gallery showcasing the incredibly diverse fish, jellyfish and octopus in Canadian waters;

• Chinatown: The history, culture and heritage of North America’s third largest Chinatown by population, after those in San Francisco and New York, are very much worth exploring. And then there’s the food! From hole-in-the-wall spots to long-time restaurants, Chinatown is full of great places to eat. On my most recent visit to the neighbourhood, I enjoyed incredibly succulent traditional Chinese-style BBQ at Chinatown BBQ; delicious steamed buns for breakfast at New Town Bakery; and melt-in-your-mouth brioche donuts made fresh daily at mello. One of the most popular selections is the Strawberries & Cream — and after having one, I can certainly see why;

• Granville Island: I spent a rain day — yes, you might get a little drizzle while visiting the wet coast (haha) — grazing the public market on Granville Island. Vancouver’s top chefs are often spotted shopping here for high-quality and rare ingredients for their menus but us regular folk can also indulge our palates with a visit to the market’s incredible food court where delis, restaurants and lunch counters feature a variety of international cuisine. If the weather permits, and it usually does despite the misconception that it ‘always rains in Vancouver,’ stroll around the island and explore the Artisan District for a variety of chic and cool local goods and enjoy the various street performers in one of the outdoor courtyards;

• English Bay: Located at the far end of Denman and Davie steets and connected to Stanley Park along the seawall, there are many reasons to visit English Bay: great restaurants, loads of outdoor activities, trendy shopping. But the best reason to visit is free; it is a stunningly beautiful bay with picturesque views in every direction. And the best one is when the sun goes down; there is likely no better urban spot in Canada to watch a sunset (maybe Crescent Beach near White Rock, but that’s a story for another time). It’s a magical and breathtaking site when the light starts to change the colour of the sky and sea. A little tip: stroll down to the appropriately-named Sunset Beach Park to get a great view and less crowds;

• Gastown: Often recognized as the birthplace of the City of Vancouver, the district is named after Captain John Deighton, an English mariner and saloon keeper whose talkative nature earned him the nickname “Gassy Jack.” During parts of the 20th Century, Gastown was known as ‘Skid Road’ and I recall visiting Vancouver in the early-1980s and still being advised to avoid the area. And while it still is part of Vancouver’s somewhat notorious Downtown Eastside, most Gastown has been gentrified and is a popular tourist destination. For a detailed history of Gastown check out this terrific article in the Canadian Encyclopedia. Like the neighbourhood, it’s fascinating stuff.
  

Where to stay…

For a variety of reasons, the number of hotel rooms in Vancouver has dropped significantly over the last couple of decades. The shortage has jacked up the average daily rate for a room and Vancouver is — not surprisingly, I suppose — now the most expensive of all Canadian cities. So, brace yourself for that — particularly if visiting in peak season. I prefer to travel during shoulder seasons, which often helps. Having said all that, I’ve stayed at a number of fine properties over the years and here are a few of my faves:

• Perched on a six-acre waterfront site just outside the boundaries of Stanley Park, the Westin Bayshore has loads of character, some intriguing history and amazing views of . First opened in the spring of 1961, the hotel is a city landmark, a meeting spot, a reference point on tourist maps. Fleeing American tax authorities and not seen in public for years, reclusive American billionaire Howard Hughes resided in the top two floors of the Bayshore Inn for five months and 28 days in the 1970s — six months would have triggered Canadian residency and taxation issues for Hughes. Purchased by local developer Concord Pacific for a reported $290 million a few years ago, the property retains a feel of a bygone era and also has a modern focus on healthy food and an active lifestyle. Included in your stay is access to a fleet of bikes;

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• My first adult visits to Vancouver were to cover the CFL and the Winnipeg Blue Bombers and I more often than not would stay at the stylish Georgian Court. The full-service boutique hotel is located steps from BC Place Stadium, Rogers Arena, fashionable Robson Street and many of downtown Vancouver’s main tourist attractions;
  

• Located in Yaletown and in close proximity to the seawall path, the DOUGLAS is an ideal base camp for touring around downtown Vancouver. The elegant hotel, part of the international Autograph Collection, pays homage to the original Douglas firs that laid the foundation for the city's economy. There is a living wall in the entryway, the reception desk is a glass-encased, illuminated 25-foot-long replica Douglas fir — and there is a serene 30,000-square-foot outdoor terrace and garden you can access from the sixth-floor hotel lobby. I love this place;
  

• On my most recent trip to the coast, I found a terrific deal at the Listel Hotel. There’s lots to like about this Robson Street property: it’s clean, comfortable and quiet; the rooms are very cosy and are filled with limited edition and original artwork; and it has free, ice-cold water — sparkling or still — on tap on each floor.
  

Get your wheels at…

There are loads of places to rent a bike and lots of hotels have free bikes available to guests. I can give a solid thumbs-up to this pair of local shops:

• English Bay Bike Rentals is ideally located on the far south end of Davie Street; near Stanley Park and the seawall trail. Their city hybrid bike of choice is the light, versatile and efficient Specialized Sirrus X 2.0 that is a great bike for touring around town. They also have beach cruisers, road bikes and e-bikes;
  

• Cycle City Tours has a wide selection of bikes and is conveniently located on one of the city’s main crosstown bike lanes; Hornby Street. They also have a terrific selection of group tours, including the five-hour, 20-km Grand Bike Tour that goes through Stanley Park, visits Granville Island Market and explores the history of Chinatown and Gastown.
  

I hope this information is helpful to you when planning a trip to Vancouver. If you have any questions or would like some other suggestions, feel free to drop me a line. I’m happy to help.

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Steve